Kodi cashmere ndi chiyani? N'chifukwa chiyani ubweya wa 'ulemerero' umenewu ukuchoka mu mafashoni

Miyezi ingapo yapitayi yawona mafashoni atsopano akutuluka: kukhala chete mwaulemu.

Kutanthauziridwa mopanda tanthauzo komanso sombre chic, izi zidawonetsedwaotchukakuvala mitundu yosasunthika ndi zojambula zosavuta, zowoneka bwino, nthawi zambiri mu nsalu zachilengedwe zodula monga cashmere.

Chokhachokha kumbuyo kwa chikhalidwe ichi chinachokera ku mfundo yakuti popanda nsalu zamtengo wapatali, zamtendere zamtendere zinali zosatheka - kuwonjezera pa kuwonetsera kwa cashmere ngati chinthu chofunika.

Koma lero, kafukufuku wachinsinsi akuwonetsa kuti zenizeni zomwe zimapangitsa kuti cashmere apangidwe ndi 'chete'.

Malonda ambuzi za Cashmere: Zowona

Chimodzi mwazinthu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pafupipafupi pamafashoni apamwamba, bizinesi ya cashmere inali yamtengo wapatali $3.2 biliyoni mu 2022.

Kutentha kwa Cashmere ndi chimodzi mwa zifukwa zomwe zinthuzo zimafunidwa kwambiri: monga mbuzi za cashmere zimakhala m'madera omwe kutentha kumatha kutsika mpaka -30 ° C, tsitsi lawo lalitali ndi lofewa komanso lotentha kwambiri.

Lingaliro la kutentha, ulusi wamtengo wapatali wochokera ku mbuzi zodyetsera mwamtendere m'minda yayikulu yawonjezera chithunzi cha cashmere chomwe sichinatsutsidwe mpaka pano.

Koma kafukufuku woyamba wa PETA Asia pazamalonda ku China ndi Mongolia adawonetsa kuti kuseri kwa kunja kosangalatsa kuli mdima wandiweyani: ogwira ntchito adawoneka akugwira nyamazo movutikira, akuwaponda ndikugwiritsa ntchito zida zakuthwa zachitsulo kung'amba tsitsi m'matupi awo.

Nyama zikavulazidwa mosapeŵeka m’kati mwa njirayi, sanalandire chisamaliro cha Chowona.

Mbuzi, zomwe zimadya nyama komanso zomwe zimachita mantha kugwiridwa, zinkavutika ndi ululu waukulu komanso kupsinjika maganizo panthawiyi. Mlimi wina ananena kuti njira zometa mbuzi ndizovuta kwambiri.

Kuchotsa ubweya wawo m’njira imeneyi kumalepheretsanso nyama kutsekereza zinthu zachilengedwe, zomwe zimachititsa kuti zisamavutike kudwala komanso sachedwa kudwala.

Ponseponse, kafukufukuyu adapereka lingaliro lamakampani akafika pamawonekedwe amtundu wapamwamba: zidapezeka,mafashoni othamangasiwoyipa wamakampani okhawo.

Mitundu yapamwamba yamafashoni ndi cashmere

Chaka chino, PETA idatulutsa mboni ina yowona ndi maso zamakampani a cashmere ku Mongolia, kuwulula kuti ogulitsa kumitundu yodziwika bwino monga mafashoni.Burberry, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci ndi Prada ankachita nkhanza komanso zachiwawa za nyama.

Ndipo kufufuza kumeneku kunakhala chikumbutso champhamvu chakuti palibe kupuma kosangalatsa kwa nyama m'makampani opanga mafashoni: pamene mbuzi zinkaonedwa kuti sizothandizanso kupanga ndalama za cashmere, antchito ankazimenya pamutu ndi nyundo ndikudula khosi.

PETA ili ndi mlandu waukulu kumakampani apamwamba, ambiri omwe amatengera miyezo 'yodalirika' komanso 'yokhazikika'.

"Makampaniwa akupindula chifukwa cha kuvutika kwa mbuzi, ndipo makasitomala sadziwa za nkhanza zomwe zikuchitika," adatero Wachiwiri kwa Purezidenti wa PETA ku Ulaya, UK ndi Australia, Mimi Bekhechi.

Kusintha kwachilengedwe kwa cashmere

Kupatula nkhanza za nyama zomwe zikuchulukirachulukira, palinsochilengedwekuganizira.

Pafupifupi 90 peresenti ya cashmere yonse padziko lapansi imachokera ku China ndi Mongolia, kumene kuwonongeka kwa nthaka ndi chiopsezo cha chipululu ndi mavuto aakulu.

Makampani a cashmere m'mayikowa amathandizira pazifukwa izi: mbuzi za cashmere zimadya 10 peresenti ya kulemera kwa thupi lawo tsiku lililonse, zimadya chomera chonse ndi muzu.

Izi zimalepheretsa kuphukanso, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti nthaka ikhale pachiwopsezo cha chipululu - ndipo tisaiwale kuti iyi ndi gawo ladziko lapansi lomwe lakhala chipululu.

Njira zopanda nkhanza za cashmere

Ndiye yankho lake ndi chiyani? Zikuwoneka kuti miyezo ndi ziphaso sizili choncho - kafukufuku waposachedwa, makamaka, aphatikiza ntchito zomwe zidapereka makampani ovomerezeka ndi Sustainable Fiber Alliance, kuwonetsanso kuti ziphaso za 'umunthu' ndi 'zaudindo' ndizochepa chabe kuposa zida zamalonda.

M'malo mwake, PETA imakhulupirira kuti tsogolo lagona pa kuchoka ku cashmere palimodzi. "PETA ikulimbikitsa onse opanga mafashoni kuti asiye kubisala kumbuyo kwa zilembo zosocheretsa ndikusintha kupita ku cashmere yapamwamba komanso yokopa nyama," adatero Mimi Bekhechi.

Nsalu zochokera ku zomerazikufika ku mbiri yabwino ya cashmere - koma popanda nkhanza kwa nyama komanso zowononga zachilengedwe.

Lowani hemp, imodzi mwazinthu zokomera zachilengedwe masiku ano. Ulusi wozizwitsawu umakula popanda kufunikira kwa mankhwala ophera tizilombo kapena feteleza, ndipo ndi wabwino kwambiriulimi wa organic.

Mwina omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiriubweya wa veganm'malo mokhazikika ndi thonje lachilengedwe, lomwe lili ndi zinyalala zazing'ono komanso limafunikira mankhwala ophera tizilombo ndi feteleza wocheperako kuposa thonje wamba.

Tencel, yopangidwa kuchokera ku cellulose yamatabwa, imapangidwa ndi njira yotseka, kutanthauza kuti zinthu monga madzi ndi mankhwala zimagwiritsidwanso ntchito kuti zichepetse zinyalala.

Zosadziŵika bwino, zosankha zambiri zatsopano ndi monga cashmere ya soya, yomwe imatha kuwonongeka ndikutengera mawonekedwe a cashmere ndi kutentha.

Chinanso chomwe chikubwera ndi ubweya wa nthochi - wachifundo ku chilengedwe komanso wopanda ulusi wa nyama. Ndipo zowona, pali zida zobwezerezedwanso monga poliyesitala ndi acrylic - kubwezeretsanso kokha sikungathetse zovuta zamafashoni, koma ndi sitepe yolondola, komanso yankho lotheka kwa odya nyama omwe akufuna njira ina ya cashmere.

Chowonadi ndi chakuti zambiri zatsopano - ndi kupezeka kochuluka kwa kusankha - kumafunika ngati nsalu monga cashmere zidzatha.

Monga tawonera zikuchitika ndichikopa cha vegan, ubweya waubweya ukhoza kukhala ndi malonjezo ambiri pankhani yopanga nsalu zopangidwa ndi zinyama kukhala zachikale. Tiyeni tiyembekezere kuti zopanga zatsopano za mapulaneti ndi zinyama zidzapulumutsa miyoyo yambiri, pamene zikutipangitsa ife kuwoneka ndi kumva madola milioni.