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Menene cashmere? Me yasa wannan ulun 'al'ada' mai rikitarwa yana faɗuwa daga salo

2024-07-19

'Yan lokutan da suka gabata sun ga wani sabon salon salo ya fito: alatu shiru.

Fassara a matsayin rashin fa'ida da sombre chic, wannan yanayin ya nunamashahuran mutanesanye da lallausan launuka da sauƙi, ƙirar ƙira, sau da yawa a cikin yadudduka masu tsada na halitta kamar cashmere.

Keɓancewa a bayan wannan yanayin ya samo asali ne daga gaskiyar cewa ba tare da yadudduka masu tsada ba, kwanciyar hankali a zahiri ba za a iya samu ba - yana ƙara nuna cashmere a matsayin kayan marmari.

Amma a yau, binciken sirri yana nuna cewa gaskiyar da ke tattare da samar da cashmere ba komai bane illa 'shuru'.

Akuyar Cashmere' 'na marmari' Jawo mai laushi da dumi don kare su daga abubuwa. Hoto © ITR Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Hoto ta Getty Images

Kasuwancin akuya Cashmere: Gaskiyar

Ofaya daga cikin kayan da aka fi amfani da su akai-akai a cikin salo na ƙarshe, masana'antar cashmere ta kai dala biliyan 3.2 a cikin 2022.

Kayayyakin dumama na Cashmere na ɗaya daga cikin dalilan da ya sa ake neman kayan sosai: yayin da awakin cashmere ke rayuwa a wuraren da yanayin zafi zai iya faɗi ƙasa da -30 ° C, dogon gashin su yana da laushi kuma yana da dumi sosai.

Tunanin wannan dumamar yanayi, fiber na marmari da ke fitowa daga awaki da suke kiwo cikin lumana a fagagen filayen ya haifar da hoton cashmere wanda ya zuwa yanzu babu kokwanto.

Amma binciken farko na PETA Asia game da kasuwanci a China da Mongolia ya nuna cewa a bayan waje mai jin daɗi akwai labarin baya mai duhu: an ga ma'aikata suna mu'amala da dabbobin da kyau, suna taka su suna amfani da kayan aikin ƙarfe masu kaifi don yaga gashi daga jikinsu.

Lokacin da dabbobi suka ji rauni a cikin aikin, ba su sami kulawar dabbobi ba.

Awaki, waɗanda dabbobin ganima ne kuma suna firgita da kulawa, suna fama da matsanancin zafi da damuwa yayin wannan aikin. Wani manomin ya bayyana hanyoyin da ake yankan da cewa yana da matukar damuwa ga awakin.

Cire gashin gashin su ta wannan hanya kuma yana hana dabbobin suturta na halitta, wanda ke sa su zama masu rauni ga abubuwan da ke da alaƙa da kamuwa da cuta.

Gabaɗaya, wannan binciken ya ba masana'antar abinci don tunani lokacin da ya zo ga hoton da aka ɗauka na samfuran alatu: ya bayyana,sauri fashionba shine kawai muguwar masana'antar ba.

Ƙididdiga da ke kewaye da wannan 'yar'uwar shiru' suna da ban tsoro. Hoton hoto: seakitten ta hanyar Getty Images -infographic wanda Vegan Food & Living ya kirkira

Alamar kayan alatu da cashmere

A wannan shekara, PETA ta sake fitar da wani asusun shaidar gani da ido na masana'antar cashmere ta Mongolia, ta bayyana cewa masu ba da kayayyaki ga sanannun samfuran kayan kwalliya kamar su.Burberry, Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Gucci da Prada tsunduma a m da tashin hankali handling na dabbobi.

Kuma wannan binciken ya zama abin tunatarwa cewa babu wani farin ciki na ritaya ga dabbobi a cikin masana'antar kayan kwalliya: lokacin da aka ɗauki awakin ba su da amfani ga samar da cashmere, ma'aikata sun buge su da guduma a kai tare da yanke makogwaronsu.

PETA ta dora laifin da yawa tare da kamfanonin alatu, wadanda da yawa daga cikinsu sun cika ka'idojin 'alhaki' da 'dorewa'.

"Wadannan kamfanoni suna cin riba daga wahalar awaki, kuma abokan ciniki ba su da masaniya game da zaluncin," in ji Mataimakin Shugaban PETA na Turai, Birtaniya da Australia, Mimi Bekhechi.

Tasirin muhalli na cashmere

Baya ga yawaitar cin zarafin dabbobi, akwai kumatasirin muhallidon yin la'akari.

Kusan kashi 90 cikin 100 na duk wani nau'in cashmere a duniya yana samuwa ne daga Sin da Mongoliya, inda gurbacewar kasa da kasadar kwararowar hamada babbar matsala ce.

Masana'antar cashmere a waɗannan ƙasashe suna ba da gudummawa ga waɗannan batutuwa: awakin cashmere suna cin kashi 10 na nauyin jikinsu a kowace rana, suna cinye shuka gaba ɗaya tare da tushen.

Wannan yana hana sake girma, yana haifar da ƙasa cikin haɗarin kwararowar hamada - kuma kada mu manta wannan wani yanki ne na duniya wanda ya riga ya zama hamada.

Ana duba gashin wannan akuya kafin a yi sheka. Hoto © ITR Kayayyakin gani ta hanyar hotuna Getty

Madadin cashmere mara tausayi

To menene mafita? Da alama ba ƙa'idodi da takaddun shaida ba ne - sabon binciken da aka yi, a zahiri, ya haɗa da ayyukan da kamfanonin da aka ba da takaddun shaida ta Sustainable Fiber Alliance, suna nuna sake cewa takaddun 'yan Adam' da 'masu alhakin' ba su wuce kayan aikin talla kawai ba.

Madadin haka, PETA ta yi imanin cewa nan gaba ta ta'allaka ne da ƙaura daga cashmere gaba ɗaya. "PETA tana roƙon duk masu sana'ar kayyakin zamani da su daina fakewa da alamun yaudara kuma su canza zuwa kayan marmari, kayan cin ganyayyaki na dabba," in ji Mimi Bekhechi.

Yadudduka na tushen shukasuna kamawa har zuwa darajar cashmere - amma ba tare da zaluntar dabbobi ba kuma tare da ƙaramin tasirin muhalli.

Shigar da hemp, ɗaya daga cikin mafi kyawun kayan masarufi a cikin masana'antar a yau. Wannan fiber na mu'ujiza yana girma ba tare da buƙatar magungunan kashe qwari ko taki ba, kuma ya dace da shiOrganic noma.

Yiwuwa mafi yawan amfani da suulu mai cin ganyayyakimaye gurbin a cikin tsari mai ɗorewa shine auduga na halitta, wanda ke da ƙarancin amfani da sharar gida kuma yana buƙatar ƙarancin magungunan kashe qwari da takin zamani fiye da auduga na al'ada.

Tencel, wanda aka yi daga cellulose na itace, an yi shi tare da tsarin rufaffiyar, ma'ana cewa ana sake amfani da albarkatun kamar ruwa da sinadarai don rage sharar gida.

 

Na halitta, filaye na tushen tsire-tsire su ne mafi alheri kuma mafi dacewa da duniya madadin yadudduka na tushen dabba. Hoto © Björn Forenius ta Hotunan Getty

Mafi ƙanƙanta, ƙarin sabbin zaɓuɓɓuka sun haɗa da cashmere waken soya, wanda zai iya zama mai lalacewa kuma yana kwaikwayi ɗimuwar cashmere da ɗumi.

Wani mai zuwa kuma mai zuwa shine ulun ayaba - mai kyau ga muhalli kuma ba tare da oza na fiber dabba ba. Kuma ba shakka, akwai kayan da aka sake sarrafa su kamar polyester da acrylic – sake yin amfani da shi kaɗai ba zai magance matsalolin salon ba, amma mataki ne a kan hanyar da ta dace, da kuma mafita mai dacewa ga masu cin ganyayyaki da ke neman madadin cashmere.

Gaskiyar ita ce, ana buƙatar ƙarin sabbin abubuwa - da ƙarin samun zaɓi - idan masana'anta kamar cashmere za su ɓace.

Kamar yadda muka gani faruwa dafata fata, ulun shuka na iya ɗaukar alƙawarin da yawa idan ya zo ga yin yadudduka da aka samo daga dabba. Bari mu yi fatan cewa sama-da-zuwa duniya da kuma dabbobi m ƙirƙirãwa zai ceci m rayuka, tare da sa mu duka gani da kuma jin dala miliyan.